It is often regarded as the face of a watch. An infinitely small area providing infinite scope for expression and a stage on which to express the incredible creativity of watchmakers turned artists, dials shine even more brightly when setting the scene for the treasures of Nature. Diamonds, fine or precious stones, mother-of-pearl, hard stones, aventurine, natural pigments. These mesmerizing forms of beauty, tamed by the deftness of the artisan, establish refinement as second nature within feminine watchmaking.
It is not true that someone can only look at an antique pocket watch and immediately know how it had been made. So much technique has been lost over the ages – even in these cases once the tools and even technical drawings are readily available. It might be the epitome of a first-world problem (or even “Swiss dilemma,” as I call it), but there are people in the watch and luxury sector in general who devote much of their time and professions to learning how individuals made matters from the past.This look for lost techniques and processes to create art started in the area of restoration. People needed to restore old artwork to appear newer again, and in many cases there are not a great deal of clues to go by. Autodidacts of the very brilliant caliber have been able to reinvent some amazing things. In the watch industry, where “old” is frequently the brand new “new,” the spirit of rediscovering the past is a deep part of the culture of several manufacturers. Perhaps especially at companies including Jaquet Droz Bird Watch Price Replica whose namesake expired a few hundred years ago.Going back to the watch, the face that frames the figure eight-style dials is decorated with what they call a paillonnée enameling technique. Here we have a surface that is stained, textured, and then set using a run of solid gold “paillons” that together create an attractive geometric pattern. These little gold appliques are currently produced in-house by Jaquet Droz, as nobody else apparently has got the skills to make them any more. In most likelihood, traditional ones in the past were created using a casting method. Jaquet Droz even admits that a number of their first modern paillonnée enameling watches use original paillons in the past which they were able to recover in a variety of manners. Finally, they needed to generate new ones and now do this in-house in small batches.I’ve personally seen Jaquet Droz’s small, albeit remarkable “artistic method” studio which looks like a mix between a development and research laboratory and an art recovery studio. Approaches and styles are analyzed to see about the ideal way of recreating this and other missing art which we can enjoy in brand new watches. It is a lot of small details, but something worth knowing about when thinking about a watch priced at over $100,000. That is a good deal of money, but there are definitely worse ways to spend it to a luxury timepiece.
It sends us rain and sunshine, tracing and erasing landscapes, producing marvels and rare phenomena, entran- cing and inspiring human beings in sometimes incredible ways. Bountiful nature, which since the dawn of time has unstintingly shared the best the Earth has to offer. Exceptional stones and indescribable colors, sparkling as they clothe time in supremely precious style. Among the inescapable treasures provided by nature are the countless diamonds loved as much by watchmakers as the women whose wrists they embrace. These perfectly brilliant or baguette-cut gems pave dials in light. Girard-Perregaux has set them like a theatre curtain raised to reveal mother-of-pearl marquetry adorning the dial of the Cat’s Eeye Sparkle La Fenice ; while Cartier use them to shape the outlines of a stylized panther on a gold and onyx cuff watch featuring a dial topped by an over 27-carat heliodor (also known as golden beryl).
The motion is treated with ruthenium and has a black PVD rotor to provide it a dark look to coincide with the black ceramic case.All things considered, these brand new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Ceramic watches are fairly interesting in that they match the timeless and understated design of their first Grande Seconde watch with contemporary ceramic material. The end result, judging from the press pictures at least, seems rather pleasant to me. Surely, these ceramic models will likely be significantly more scratch resistant than the non-ceramic variants that are in stainless steel or gold. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde White and Black Ceramic Clous de Paris are both priced at $14,600 each. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Power Reserve Ceramic Clous de Paris, on the other hand, is $16,800. Each is limited to 28 bits. Among the latest Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon watches from the boutique Swiss watch manufacturer (that is probably the tiniest and most unique high-end brand under the Swatch Group umbrella) is that this eight-piece limited edition reference J013033242 Grande Seconde Tourbillon Paillonnée you see here. I last covered another edition of this Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon watch here in 2015. I get more into a technical discussion of the base watch in that article, but I will touch on the significant points here and center on the paillonnée enamel technique used to decorate the dial.What is important to mention is that within the last several years Jaquet Droz has invested rather heavily in not only bringing many of these artistic decorative techniques in-house (as opposed to utilizing external artists and craftspeople), but also in rediscovering missing techniques that were used in the past to make a lot of the gorgeous enamel work on pocket watches and other things out of a couple hundred years back.
Cat’s Eye Sparkle La Fenice Girard-Perregaux
Connected to the case is one of Jaquet Droz’s most excellent rolled alligator straps in a deep blue to coordinate with the aventurine on the dial. What I really like about the rolled leather look is that there is no stitching on the surface, which I happen to not like in many cases – particularly on more formal or dress watches. Limited to just 28 pieces, I’m rather fond of the pretty looks of this ref. My only remaining question is whether or not it would find a place on my wrist… and so I said “perhaps on the right night and under the ideal sky” (wow, that came out so French!) . He irony of the Www Jaquet Droz Watches Replica Grande Seconde Quantieme view was that it was initially published in steel, as a lower-priced model for its high-end brand. This was back in 2011, and we provided a review of the steel Jaquet Droz Grande Second Quantieme watch here. For 2014, Jaquet Droz releases some new versions of the this “calendar” (quantieme) version of its Grande Seconde watch in gold in addition to with enamel dials.More therefore, the 2014 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches feature brand new moves which Jaquet Droz will utilize to help distinguish their timepieces. Jaquet Droz is a portion of the Swatch Group and received high-end movements from the group, but starting with this new collection, the moves will be much simpler with improved specs and an improved visual aesthetic.So allow me to start by discussing the moves used at the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches. Both the larger and smaller diameter versions of the watch is going to have exactly the identical movement, which will have an automatic rotor at a metal to match the case (either 18k red or white gold). The motion is that the Jaquet Droz caliber 2660Q2. P automatic using a silicon hair spring and double electricity reserves. The decoration is impressively nice and the work on the automatic rotor is quite fantastic. This is really the leadership Jaquet Droz had to go in order to help rank not only their layouts, but their movements for the high-end customer.
Onyx and heliodor cuff watch © Cartier
Sheer unadulterated beauty
Nonetheless, watchmaking for women does not of course confine itself to the undeniable charm of diamonds. The brilliance of the latter is often a lure to draw the eye towards other equally fascinating natural gems. Whether sculpted, engraved or guillochéd, mother-of-pearl embellishes many feminine dials. Chanel’s one-of-a-kind Mademoiselle Privé Décor Coromandel models inspired by Coco Chanel’s famous lacquered screens are adorned with coral, turquoise, cornelian, mother-of-pearl or lapis lazuli, sculpted using the antique glyptic technique. A subtle and rare form of expertise requiring as much delicacy and precision as the art of enameling that is far better known and more widely used.
Mademoiselle Privé Décor Coromandel © Chanel
Applied to dials in much the same way as paintings, pigments are also some of these marvels produced by nature. Well accustomed to the complexities of enameling, Van Cleef & Arpels introduces a veritable manifesto of style and poetry with its Charms Extraordinaire Fée Sakura watch featuring an enchanting pink lacquered dial mingling mother-of-pearl, enamel and diamonds. And what amazing depth in the black Grand Feu enamel dial adorned with a miniature pink flamingo adorning the Petite Heure Minute Black Enamel created in the Jaquet Droz Ateliers d’Art !
Charms Extraordinaire Fée Sakura watch © Van Cleef & Arpels
Attached to the instance is one of Jaquet Droz’s most excellent rolled alligator straps at a deep blue to match the aventurine on the dial. What I really like about the rolled leather look is that there is not any stitching on the surface, which I happen to not like in many cases – particularly on more formal or dress watches. Limited to just 28 bits, I am rather fond of the pretty looks of this ref. My only remaining question is whether or not it would find a spot in my wrist… and so I said “possibly on the ideal night and under the right skies” (wow, that came out so French!) . He irony of the Jaquet Droz Butterfly Watch Replica Grande Seconde Quantieme watch was that it was originally released in steel, as a lower-priced version for its high-end brand. This was back in 2011, and we provided a review of the steel Jaquet Droz Grande Second Quantieme watch here. For 2014, Jaquet Droz releases some new variations of this “calendar” (quantieme) variant of its Grande Seconde view in gold as well as with enamel dials.More so, the 2014 Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches contain brand-new moves which Jaquet Droz will utilize to help differentiate their timepieces. Jaquet Droz is a portion of the Swatch Group and received high-end movements from the team, but starting with this new group, the moves will be a lot nicer with improved specs and a better visual aesthetic.So let me begin by discussing the moves used in the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme Ivory Enamel watches. The larger and smaller diameter variations of this watch is going to have the identical movement, which will have an automatic rotor at a metal to match the situation (either 18k red or white gold). The movement is that the Jaquet Droz grade 2660Q2. P automatic using a silicon hair spring and double power reserves. The motion works at 4Hz (28,800 bph) and has a power reserve of 68 hours. The decoration is impressively nice and the work on the automated rotor is very fantastic. This is really the leadership Jaquet Droz needed to go so as to help position not only their designs, but their movements for the luxury customer.
Petite Heure Minute Black Enamel © Jaquet-Droz
Tamed by the human hand, materials and colors along with precious, hard or fine gemstones represent infinite riches that exalt feminine watchmaking, even in their simplest possible expression. One has only to think of the beauty radiating from the turquoise or opal adorning two Piaget Altiplano models celebrating the collection’s 60th anniversary. Or the luminous charm of the blue adventurine dial gracing the Tonda Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy unveiled by Parmigiani Fleurier. An earthly treasure so fascinating that one might almost believe it is heaven-sent.
Altiplano 60th anniversary © Piaget
It is proven to be rather attractive and is a part of the contemporary Jaquet Droz brand because its reintroduction in the year 2000. Obviously, the irony here (as I have mention previously) is that the moments index (that is also the tourbillon screen) is smaller compared to the hour and moment dial so it is not technically a “grand moments.” This name applies accurately to the non-tourbillon variations of this design where the moments indicator is under (and larger), and the top of the figure eight will be that the dial to get the hour and minutes (which can be smaller). The opinion is intentionally daring, though it is more dressy in its own style at 43mm wide (13.1mm thick) – which, for mepersonally, is the perfect size since everything you’re really showing off here is the art of the dial. The makeup of this watch is really top-notch (supposing the total style appeals to you personally, as it does myself). I enjoy how Jaquet Droz decided to go for a semi-transparent window to the tourbillon. You can view it via the dial, but it is not brazenly exposed. It’s a more subtle way of displaying a tourbillon, also I believe it is a style many people will love (again, despite the high cost of this standing timepiece). It is possible to see the motion through the sapphire crystal caseback window, and there you’ll also see the appealing blue lapis lazuli applique set into the differently 18k red gold automatic rotor.
Métropolitaine Sélène Galaxy © Parmigiani Fleurier
Paul O’Neil, Chief Editor of WorldTempus.com gives us his position
Marie’s title highlights a big difference between the design of men’s and ladies’ watch dials. It’s interesting to note that all the wonderful dial designs listed in this article are created using wholly natural elements. It’s something that is certainly not true for gents’ watches and just goes to show that true beauty is something natural, something that cannot be reproduced by humans, no matter how cutting-edge the technology. Furthermore, the fact that these dials are usually even smaller for ladies’ watches has never been a barrier to creativity or the quantity of precious stones that can be crammed on to them. Head over to WorldTempus and browse through our Watchfinder to see just how much detail can be packed into these dials.
The animations can exceed 12 seconds and play out four distinct situations, and it is a severe amount of automation to pack into a 47mm-wide by 18.95mm-thick wristwatch case. Every element on this dial is adorned by hand, with an off-centre subdial in onyx near 12 o’clock to indicate hours and minutes.The instance of the Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater consists of 18 karat red gold and contains yet more hand-applied engraving along the sides and lugs. It comes furnished with a rolled-edge dark green alligator strap which nicely matches the flora from the depicted scene. The watch is not water-resistant, though I do not imagine many owners will try to shower or swim with these on anyway.Visible through the sapphire exhibition caseback is the Jaquet Droz RMA89 hand-wound minute repeater movement using one barrel that supplies a 60-hour power book. That power book is upward in the RMA88’s 48 hours utilised in previous Bird Repeater watches, and we will assume that maximum energy book refers to utilize the watch with no conducting its massively complex and definitely power-consuming chiming and automata mechanics – the hummingbird’s wings beating 40 times per second is faster than some bigger species of real hummingbirds. Like every other element of this Jaquet Droz Tropical Bird Repeater, this movement is meticulously hand-decorated, with Côtes de Genève, perlage on the bottom plate, and polished surfaces. Fantastic to respect in and of itself, a few previous Bird Repeater watches moved even more next-level by engraving the motion together with, for example, leaf motifs (see the above linked-to Bird Repeater post) that feel even more congruous with the total watch than this conventional finishing. The motion features 86 stones plus a balance spring which oscillates at 21,600 vph, or 3Hz. A clef logo etched into a spur of red gold only underneath the striking hammers refers to the musical nature of this movement.